INTRODUCTION:

The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “kosm tikos” means having the power, arrange, skill in decorating ¹. According to drug and cosmetic act 1940 and rules 1945, any article or preparation intended to rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or introduce to or applied to any part of human body for cleaning, perfuming, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any article intended for use as component of cosmetic ².

The concept of beauty and cosmetic is an ancient and mankind civilization. Nowadays, herbal cosmetic is mostly preferred over synthetic one. Mostly herbal cosmetic is also called as natural cosmetic. Using a different cosmetic ingredient form the base herbal cosmetic in that one or more herbal ingredient are added ³.

The cosmetic manufacturer adapted a term cosmeceutical in beginning of 1990’s to explain the OTC skincare product which claims therapeutic benefits by the addition of herbal active ingredient ⁴. From the ancient time cosmetic is continuously used throughout the history of development of man. At that time also woman use colours for the beautifying and decoration purpose of skin ⁵. The beauty of individuals skin depends on their habits, health, daily routine, climatic conditions and maintenance ⁶. By the excessive exposure to heat skin get dehydrate during summer season and it causes wrinkles, blemishes, pigmentation and sunburns. In winter season extreme cold condition causes cracks, cuts, infections and maceration to skin ⁷. In all age group the skin disease is common. The ancient system of medicine and ayurveda had use various herbs and floras to make cosmetic for beautifying and protection purpose ⁸. Herbs slowly produce cures and offer a way to put the body in proper tune ⁹. In herbal cosmetic in herbs are use in extract or crude form ¹⁰. The demand of herbal cosmetic is increasing rapidly because of their skin friendliness and lack of side effect and provide nutrients and other useful minerals to the body ¹¹. Raymond Reed founding member of U.S Society of Cosmetic Chemist was used the term cosmeceutical firstly in 1961. Actually, he used this word to brief active and science-based cosmetics. Also, the Dr. Albert Kligman in 1984 used this term for referring the substance have both cosmetic as well as therapeutic benefits¹². Cosmeceuticals improve health and beauty hence it is cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids ¹³.

The cosmetic use was mentioned in Pre-Christian Hellenistic period from where historians had introduced the use of herbals in cosmetic products. As a skin care product, the queen Cleopatra use alovera gel in cosmetic and beautification purpose. In “Natural History” encyclopaedia the Pliny the Elder (A.D. 23-79) has written an engrossing section on aromatic materials perfumes. During 16^th century the Cornelius Celsus a roman physician (B.C.7- A.D.53) talk about the conditions of skin cleanser. The queen Elizabeth inspired woman to cultivate gardens. She also helps then in preparation of scented washes sachets and powders ^14,15,16. In the time of Elizabeth, the use of ground orris is done as an ingredient in face powder and red ocher. By covering with powered sulphur and turpentine for an hour the pimples were cured and letter anointed with fresh butter ¹⁷. Firstly, by soaking the hair in alum warm solution and then added to decoration of turmeric, rhubarb as well as bark of barberry to fulfil the fashion of golden-red hair, reddish and yellowish hair. On the basis of herbs and herbal oil a large number of cosmetic formulations have been develop and formulated. From the ancient time Indian woman have use herbs like turmeric and sandal wood for skin care and to colour hair henna was used. In early period the materials such as aloes, camphor, rose water, saffron, lac, myrrh, and sandal wood were used commonly ¹⁸. For body decorations the saffron, agar, alkanet, chlorophyll green and indigo were used. The cassia and nutmeg are use as perfumes¹⁹. For the development of herbal cosmetic majority of traditional systems of medicines in world have significant contributions. By applying Papaver somniferum in milk the dandruff was removed ²⁰. In ancient time the usages of herbs in getting glowing complexion were found in written form in Ayurveda like Charaka Samhitha and Capturing in the Varna Kashaya herbs like Chandana, nagkeshara, padmak, khus, mangistha, sariva, payasya, seta (sweta durva) and lata (shyama durva) were used. For the purification of blood and eliminate vitiated doshas like vata, pitta, kapha from the body as they are caused for skin disorder and other diseases these herbs were used. A well-known traditional system of medicine an ayurveda is use for permanent cure of ailments and present market trends that the herbal cosmetic product will succeed in capturing the market²¹.

Need of Cosmetic:

For enhance general appearance

· To beautification purpose

· Cleansing effect

Protection of skin from UV rays, dust and rigid climate

· Emollient effect

· Minimize skin defect

· Social application

· Clinical application²¹

Classification of herbal cosmetic:

1. According to function of cosmetic preparations:

1. Emollient: Cold cream, vanishing ream, foundation cream, solution, lotion

2. Cleansing: Shampoo, cream, rinser

3. Deodorant and antiperspirant: spray, sticks and mouthwashes

4. Protective preparation: creams and powders

5. Decorative preparation: lipstick, eyeliners, rouges, lacquers and dressing preparation.²²

2. According to region where it is used:

1. Skin: Powder, lipsticks, cream, lotion, rouges, solution

2. Hair: Shampoo, conditioners, bleaches, creams, colouring preparation

3. Nails: Nail-lacquers, lacquer removers

4. Teeth: Paste, powders, gels, dentifrices

5. Eye: Eyeliner, mascaras, eye shadows and eyebrow pencil.²²

3. According to the function of cosmetic preparations:

1. Emollient: cold cream, vanishing cream, foundation cream, lotion, solution

2. Cleansing: cream shampoo and rinses etc.

3. Decorating preparation: lipstick, rouges, eyeliners, lacquers, and dressing preparation

4. Deodorant and antiperspirants: sprays, sticks, and mouthwashes

5. Protective preparation: creams and powders²²

Advantage of Herbal Cosmetic Over Synthetic:

Nowadays most of the woman prefer natural products over chemicals to maintain their personal care and enhance beauty. In the field of beauty and fashion herbal cosmetics are the modern trend. Herbal cosmetic is free from synthetic chemicals and have less side effect as compared to synthetic cosmetics as well as this provides satisfaction²².

Following are some advantages of using a natural cosmetic which make them a better choice over synthetic ones:

Natural products:

Herbal cosmetics are obtained from nature and hence are free from all dangerous synthetic chemicals²².

Safe to use:

As compared to other synthetic beauty products the natural cosmetics are safer to use. The natural cosmetics are hypo-allergenic and these are tested and proven by dermatologists to be safe to use anytime. Peoples don’t have to worry related to skin related problems after application of cosmetics since they are made up of natural ingredients. Example- BHA (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) and BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) are the synthetic antioxidants used in lipsticks and moisturisers as preservative²³. The allergic reaction in skin can induce due to use of these BHA and BHT²⁴. The International Agency for Research on Cancer divided BHA as a possible human cancer-causing agent that is carcinogen²⁵. The natural antioxidant presents in herbal cosmetic²⁶.

Compatible with all skin types:

For all the skin types natural cosmetics are more suitable. As per the appropriate irrespective of your skin tone you will find the herbal cosmetics such as foundation, lipstick, eyeshadow etc. The oily or sensitive skin woman can also use the herbal cosmetic. During the use of herbal cosmetic there is never have to worry about degrading skin condition. The colours derived from coal tar are used mostly in cosmetic, the coal tar is recognized as a human carcinogen. But the colours obtained from herbs are safer²⁷.

Wide selection to choose from:

Herbal product is offered at economical price and more affordable than synthetic. Because of the side effects and increasing cost of modern medicine 80% of world population depends on herbal products for their care²⁷.

No side effects:

The synthetic beauty products may cause irritation to our skin. They make your skin oily or dry and might block the skin pores. But whenever we use natural cosmetics need not worry about these problems²⁸.

Requirements of basic skin care:

· Cleansing agent: It remove the dead cells, dirt and dust on skin. The most common cleansing agent such as coconut oil, sesame oil and palm oil^29.

· Toners: for the tighten skin and keep it from being exposed to various toxins that are floating in the air toner helps. Herbs used as toner are sage, lemon, witch hazel, geranium, ivy burdock and essential oils ^30.

· Moisturising: The moisturiser helps to softening of skin. It provides a healthy glow to skin³¹. The common herbal moisturiser involves the glycerine, rose water, sorbitol, jojoba oil, alovera and iris³².

Herb:

It consists of entire plant or any parts of plant such as leaves, flowers, steam, roots, seeds, bark, stems and branches³³.

Herbal cosmetics:

Cosmetics prepared from the plant and other natural drugs like animals and minerals etc.

How to use herb in cosmetic:

In ancient time herbs were useful for medicinal and beautification purposes. Herbs or herbal drugs has been used after drying or in fresh form. They can be applied to the body directly or by making some preparation in earlier a time these are used in this way but now a days the extract obtained by various extraction method such as decoction, infusion, tinctures, maceration, percolation and hot continuous extraction are used. Whenever extraction is done preservative should be added in extract²².

Herbs Used in Skin care:

Fig. 1. Skin Benefits of various Herbs

1) Aloe vera:

Synonym: Aloe, Musabbar, Kumari

Biological source: Aloes is the dried juice of the leaves of Aloe barbadensis Miller belonging to family Liliaceae.

Chemical Constituent: Aloin, barbaloin, isobarbaloin, beta- barbaloin, aloe-emodin, aloesin.

Fig.2. Aloe vera

Uses: Aloe vera used as

· In skin cosmetics

· Purgative

· Carminatives

· Treatment of pains and itching

· Antiwrinkle

· Protective ³⁴.

2) Turmeric:

Synonym: Saffron Indian, Haldi, curcuma

Biological source: Turmeric is a dried rhizome of Curcuma longa Linn. belonging to family Zingiberaceae.

Chemical constituents: curcuminoids, curcumin, zingiberene, turmerone, borneol, volatile oils, arturmerone.

Fig.3. Turmeric

Uses: Turmeric is used as

· Skin conditioning and antioxidant property

· Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic

· Carminative

· Remedy of cough and cold

· Colouring agent

· Tonic

· Stimulant³⁵.

3) Hibiscus:

Synonym: Jaswand

Biological source: It consists of dried flowers and leaves of Hibiscus rosa sinensis belonging to family Malvaceae.

Chemical constituents: vitamins, flavonoids, anthocyanins, quercetin, mucilage and albumi

Fig. 4. Hibiscus

Uses: Hibiscus used:

· To enhance skin complexion and texture

· Moisturiser for skin

· Antioxidant

· Helps to combat skin infections, fight dryness, and reduce pigmentation

· Hair growth promoter

· Anti greying agent ³⁶.

4) Sandal wood oil:

Synonym: Santalol oil, Chandan

Biological source: It consist of heartwood of Santalum album, belonging to family Santalaceae.

Chemical constituents: Alfa santalol, beta santalol, santenone,

Fig.5. Sandalwood

Uses: Sandal wood is used as

· Antiseptic

· Astringent

· Perfume industry

· Anti-aging

· To treat acne

· Antimicrobial ³⁷.

5) Rose:

Synonym: Rose

Biological source: A rose is obtained from perennial flowering plant Rosa sinensis, belonging to family Rosaceae.

Chemical constituents: linalool, nerol, citronellal and geranilol

Fig. 6. Rose

Uses: Rose is used as

· Moisturiser to skin

· Skin hydrating property

· Perfume and flavouring agent

· Antibacterial

· Used for aromatherapy

· Cooling and soothing effect ³⁸.

6) Neem

Synonyms: Margosa tree, Nim, Nimba, Arishth

Biological source: it consists of dried leaves of Azadirachta indica, belonging to family Meliaceae.

Chemical constituents: Nimbidin, nimbin, azadirachtin, nimbolide, nimbolin, azadirone

Fig.7. Neem

Uses: Neem is used

· To treat acne, pigmentation

· To moisturise skin

· To treat scalp infection

· To trat skin infection

· As antiseptic, insecticidal, anthelmintic, diuretic

· To increases immunity

· To reduce dandruff, joint pain³⁹.

7) Liquorice

Synonyms: Glycyrrhiza

Biological source: It consist of dried root and stolons of Glycyrrhiza glabra, belonging to family Leguminosae.

Chemical constituents: Glycyrrhizin, liquiritin, isoliquiritin, glycyrrhizinic acid, saponin glycoside

Fig. 8. Liquorice

Uses: Liquorice is used to

· Skin brightening effect

· Treat wrinkles

· Prevent hair loss and dandruff treatments

· Treat bacterial and viral infection

· Treat digestive problem ⁴⁰.

8) Tulsi

Synonyms: Holy basil

Biological source: It consist of leaves and other part of plant Ocimum sanctum, belonging to family Labiatae.

Chemical constituents: Eugenol, methyl eugenol, linalool, methyl chavicol, cineole, rosameric acid.

Fig. 9: Tulsi

Uses: Tulsi is used as

· Antibacterial, antifungal

· Anticancer

· Antiacne

· Aromatic carminative, stimulant and flavouring agent

· Healthy ingredient for skin and hair

· Expectorant and spasmolytic ⁴¹.

9) Lemon:

Synonym:

Biological source: It consist of ripe fruits of plant Citrus limon, belonging to family Rutaceae.

Chemical constituents: Citric acid, malic acid, vitamin-C, linalool, limonene,

Fig. 10: Lemon

Uses: Lemon is used

· Acne treatment

· Antimicrobial effect

· Skin brightener

· As antioxidant

· For hair lightning ⁴².

10) Coconut oil

Synonym: Coconut butter, Copra oil

Biological source: Coconut oil is the oil expressed from dried solid part of endosperm of coconut, Cocos nucifera Linn, belonging to family Palmae.

Chemical constituents: saturated fatty acids, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid.

Fig .11. Coconut oil

Uses: coconut oil used

· For skin moisturising

· To hill wounds

· To reduce inflammation

· Help to treat acne

· For skin lightning and whitening purpose

· As face mask for oily skin

· As hair conditioner⁴³.

11) Cucumber:

Biological source: It consists of fruits of Cucumis sativus, belonging to family Cucurbitaceae.

Chemical constituents: Cucurbitacins, cucurmerin A and B, vitexin, orientin, water, proteins fats, lipids, vitamin k

Fig. 12. Cucumber

Uses: It is used

· To treat skin problems like wrinkles and sunburns

· To prevent acne

· As anti-inflammatory

· To keep hydrated

· For skin glowing ⁴⁴.

12) Beetroot:

Synonym: Chukandar, Sugar beets, Spinach beet

Biological source: It consists of fresh root of Beta vulgaris, belonging to family amaranthaceae.

Chemical constituents: betalains, betacyanins, betaxanthins, flavonoids, polyphenols, saponins.

Fig.13. Beetroot

Uses: Beetroot used

· To fights acne

· To treat dandruff

· To keep skin nourished and hydrated

· To brightens lips

· To prevent hair loss

· To promotes hair growth⁴⁵.

13) Papaya:

Synonym: Pawpaw

Biological source: It consist of ripe fruit of Carica papaya, belonging to family Caricaceae.

Chemical constituents: proteins, fat, mineral, carbohydrate, fibre,

Fig. 14. Papaya

Uses: papaya used

· In acne treatment

· To treat skin inflammation

· To treat mouth ulcer and toothache

· In indigestion

· To moisturise the skin

· For calming and tonic effect ⁴⁶.

14) Amla

Synonym: Indian gooseberry

Biological source: It consists of the dried as well as fresh fruits of Emblica officinalis belonging to family Euphorbiaceae.

Chemical constituents: vitamin c, minerals, amino acid, tannins, sugar, gum, phyllemblin

Fig.15. Amla

Uses: Amla used

· To treat acne

· For good skin tone

· To treat skin pigmentation

· To prevent dandruff

· As antiaging agent

· To improve immunity

· Treatment of scurvy and as a tonic ⁴⁷.

15) Carrot

Synonym: Gajar

Biological source: It consists of roots of Daucus carota belonging to family Apiaceae

Chemical constituents: vitamin A, carotene, carbohydrates, proteins, vitamin C, moisture

Fig. 16. Carrot

Uses: carrot used

· For glowing skin

· For improving the vision

· As Anti-ageing

· For antibacterial and antifungal effect

· To helps in skin disorder, wound healing

· To reduce cancer risk ⁴⁸.

CONCLUSION:

Cosmetics are most important part of modern lifestyle. Nowadays, the starting and ending of the day of the human being is from cosmetics. The present study conclude that herbal ingredients are more valuable alternative to the synthetic ingredients and identified many herbs used in the skin care cosmetics.

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Received on 06.06.2024 Revised on 05.08.2024

Accepted on 12.10.2024 Published on 05.12.2024

Available online on December 28, 2024

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2024; 15(2):117-124.

DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2024.00019

Sir. No.	Herb Name	Marketed Formulation	Used of Herb / formulation	Manufacturer
1.	Turmeric	Vicco turmeric	Antiseptic, Antiinflammatory	Vicco Laboratories, India
2.	Neem	Himalayas face wash	Antibacterial	Himalaya Wellness Company, India
3.	Aloe vera	Elovera moisturising cream	Soothing effect, Antioxidan	Glenmark Pharmaceutical, India
4.	Aloe vera	Patanjali aloe vera gel	Antioxidant	Patanjali Ayurved, India
5.	Neem	Margo / Medimix soap	Antibacterial, Antifungal	AVA Cholayil Health Care Pvt.Lt
6.	Cocoa butter	Cocoa butter intensive body lotion	Healing dry skin	Himalaya Wellness Company, India
7.	Sandalwood	Sandalwood face pack	Glowing skin	Indus Cosmeceuticals Pvt. Ltd. India
8.	Saffron	Saffron skin cream	Anti-aging	Vi-John Healthcare India LLP. India
9.	Sandalwood and aloe vera extract	VLCC Sun screen Lotion	Provide superior nourishment to the skin making it more beautiful and flawles	Vlcc Health Care Limited, India
10.	Liquorice	Even out face cream SPF 20	Sunscreen cream	Oriflame cosmetics, Sweden
11.	Amla	Antiwrinkle Moisturising lotion SPF 30	Antiwrinkle lotion	S B Cosmetic inc, Florida

VLCC Sun screen Lotion